tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post8050489707357613154..comments2024-02-17T02:30:05.142-06:00Comments on Inside the Oldwolf Workshop Studio: From Sorrow To Substitution To Solution.Derek Olson (Oldwolf)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17266838091596906383noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-48530895517529523002015-07-26T21:42:03.185-05:002015-07-26T21:42:03.185-05:00As for improvements, this thread got me thinking a...As for improvements, this thread got me thinking again and I just emailed Veritas with this idea(fingers crossed they actually implement it). It seems to me they could just make the post on the depth stop longer, maybe a little thicker, and then use a collet to lock it into place, similar to how the fence is locked into place. The fence on this plane won't budge for anything, so if they applied that same collet setup to the depth stop, I believe this would be the most perfect plow plane ever designed!( at least for it's size, I'm still holding my breathe for the "large" plow plane from them).Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03254204810764603344noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-20779854789264791182015-07-26T17:22:57.770-05:002015-07-26T17:22:57.770-05:00When I was working in a laser lab, we used post ho...When I was working in a laser lab, we used post holders (hollow anodized aluminum tubes) to hole the optical posts in place. The worst ones had just a 1/4-20 tapped hole on the side. The screw would bite down on the post and chew it to pieces after a while. But the best ones were the "no-slip" variety from Newport:<br /><br />http://www.newport.com/VPH-Series-No-Slip-Optical-Post-Holders/998772/1033/info.aspx<br /><br />They have a small rectangular pad inside the cylinder so that when you tighten the screw you are clamping this pad against the post. You can use a stronger screw to get more torque without the danger of snapping the screw. And because of the increased surface area of the pad, you don't risk chewing up the post. Plus, the pad is a slightly softer material that grips the post extremely well.<br /><br />Newport also makes a cam style that gives you good leverage, but they've got a patent on that one. (Maybe on the no-slip as well).<br /><br />http://www.newport.com/Cam-Lock-Optical-Post-Holders/999020/1033/info.aspx#tab_OverviewAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300960565158980358noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-49597802830897504002015-07-26T08:57:10.853-05:002015-07-26T08:57:10.853-05:00Perhaps the shank could be threaded and a jam nut ...Perhaps the shank could be threaded and a jam nut put on the shank could ride against the bottom surface of the plane. With the proper thread pitch it would provide a micrometer setting to the depth stop. <br />Going further the design of the plane could be adapted so that a captured nut could be on the top of the shank. Then the depth could be easily adjusted and the nut wouldn't limit the travel of the depth stop as much. This could be accomplished by creating a block of material that will bolt to the side of the plane, replacing the clamp. The block would have a vertical hole bored through it and a captured nut at the top. The nut can be set into a slot or held with a pin through a horizontal hole in the body of the block. The pin could engage a groove around the barrel of the captured nut. <br />With the foot of the depth stop riding along the side of the plane and the captured nut holding the vertical position the depth stop would be easy to use and much more durable. Old Sneelockhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08351962349969201851noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-4280230943726276742015-07-26T02:39:50.316-05:002015-07-26T02:39:50.316-05:00I hate this! I've tried roughing up the post ...I hate this! I've tried roughing up the post and everything else with sandpaper, doesn't work. My solution: I ordered 6 replacement knobs and keep my broken screw extractor close at hand. Note that I've broken these stupid brass knobs with both a pliers and just using my hand(maybe I'm stronger than I think)Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03254204810764603344noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-41522454027608640402015-07-25T23:41:37.032-05:002015-07-25T23:41:37.032-05:00I sawed a slot across the top of the screw with a ...I sawed a slot across the top of the screw with a hacksaw. I tighten it with a screwdriver. Works great.Paul Cottinghamhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15468537009785687292noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-45368409591650282332015-07-25T22:50:23.431-05:002015-07-25T22:50:23.431-05:00They have gone for style (or simplicity of product...They have gone for style (or simplicity of production) rather than function. There is not enough surface contact to keep it from slipping Probably the best solution for that without making lot of new parts would be to glue a bit of thin leather on the inside the notch. Like from a worn out wallet. It will crush and make a lot more surface contact. David Kirtleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09664029583631503671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8672429826561258985.post-57839520670108534522015-07-25T22:30:18.142-05:002015-07-25T22:30:18.142-05:00Perhaps the locking mechanism of the Starrett dept...Perhaps the locking mechanism of the Starrett depth gauge holds the key to the upgrade Veritas needs to implement.<br /><br />Regards,<br />MikeMike Hamiltonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00802744346399727402noreply@blogger.com