Dovetail Layout Part 3: The Frank Klausz Technique

I've finished setting up the dovetail layout discussion by talking about the tools, basic set up, and design ideas. Now we're starting on the meat 'n' taters of how I go about laying out varying dovetail joints. If you are just joining in and want to catch up, you can find all the posts collected HERE.

As I've mentioned before, at one point I gave up learning to cut dovetails. I swore them off like I'd just graduated from a joinery rehab program. As I understand it the real challenge isn't rehab itself, but staying away from life's temptations after rehab. I guess when it comes to being a card carrying member of JA (joiners anonymous) My temptation, provided by Master Frank Klausz, proved to be too strong for my resolve. The article he published on dovetail layout and cutting in the October 2005 issue of Popular Woodworking saved me from a life devoid of my favorite and most satisfying woodworking technique.

Thank you Mr. Klausz.

Here is the basics of the technique I pulled from that article. It produces wonderfully even, strong dovetails. Frank is known for his stocky, broad pins and tails, and I really it tends to lean that way I'm making my own design decisions

You start the process by measuring in from each side of your stock, half of the thickness of the stock itself. This is standard 1X pine, therefore 3/4" thick, so the dividers are set to 3/8".

I make the measurement on both sides. You'll see that I make a regular mistake and inevitably end up marking my measurements in the center of the board. When I do this, I then have to transfer the marks to the stock's outer face. This does illustrate that it's important to keep track of the visible face of your stock. Try to habitually work with the "outside" of the stock facing you, because when you're sawing that leaves any tear out to the inside.

Then using a bevel gauge set to your chosen dovetail angle, (or, if you prefer, an actual dovetail marker) I make my first marks, making sure the wide dimension of the tails face the outside. By now you are on your way.

Then adjust another set of dividers to the full width of the board.

Then set the narrow width of the first pin.

And use the bevel gauge to mark the opposing line.

Now get out your ruler and divide the remaining expanse in half. Be as accurate as possible because these pins and tails are supposed to match in size Mis-measurement can result in a loss of symmetry and an unfavorable result. Especially over a wider expanse of stock where small incremental inaccuracies can add up to something quite noticeable by the time you're done.

When the stock is wider than what I'm working here, you repeat this step, measuring to the center as many times as it takes to get the divisions correct. There's no magic number for correct, pay attention and your eyes will guide you.

Make another mark with the gauge at this measurement. Make sure it is angled in the same orientation as the two lines measured from.

Now take the dividers set to the FULL THICKNESS of the stock and measure the narrow width of the pin, just like you did on the first.

Then mark the complementary angles.

With the layout complete take a minute to inspect your work. Mark your waste and try to imagine how it will turn out. Ask yourself, "Is this acceptable?" If the answer is Yes, move forward to the sawing.

It is very, very important to make sure you mark the waste on your "to be" dovetails. I know ego can sometimes sneak in after deciding you're proficient. Do not fall for that trap, it only ends in tears and frustration. The few seconds of time you take to mark your waste can make a world of difference later, especially if you have to re-prep a section of stock from scratch because of this little failing of arrogance.

I do speak from experience and tears when I say things like this.

Always use the pins that have been cut out to mark the tails on the joining piece. There are two reasons for this. For one, you make up for small moments of humanity by creating a mirror image that will match up into a tight joint. Also, doing this is so much quicker than trying to re-layout the joint in opposite. When I first tried dovetails, I read so many confusing things that I laid out BOTH the pins and tails on the two pieces of stock before I tried to cut them. The results were somewhat less than ideal, as you probably can imagine.

A little clean up with a plane and the joint looks smooth, tight, and wonderful.

The design of Frank's layout looks very strong and even, It is a great take on the joint that does not have to take center stage, in fact in a figured wood or fine design, this layout will easily slip into the back ground and not overpower. Strong, regular, and traditional, this is a good place to start our exploration. Stay tuned for more layouts soon.

Cheers.
Oldwolf